Stylish Eats 24-7, Instant Pasta In Little Tokyo, and Trifecta Returns
by Kathryn Maese
Located on an unusual stretch of Olive just south of Ninth Street, the new Mode restaurant sticks out like a sore thumb two doors down from Club Galaxy (“100 Beautiful Girls”) and across the street from the lifeless Federal Reserve bank.
But that’s a good thing. The 24-hour French-meets-mod diner, developed by the same people who brought the stylish Royale restaurant and lounge to Downtown’s western fringe, are behind the venture set to open this week.
Owner Tony Jones gave Restaurant Buzz a sneak peak at the 4,800-square-foot space that will have its public debut at midnight on Oct. 27. The evening prior, Mode will host the after-party for the L.A. Fashion Awards.
Mode will serve an upscale version of comfort food with a French twist, with items such as fois gras and duck confit mixing with sandwiches and fries (courtesy of chef Eric Ernest). Last week workers were putting the final touches on the restaurant, which features white leather booths lit by a trio of bulbous yellow, red and orange lamps hanging from above. The opposite wall is plastered in a photomural spanning the entire expanse – it’s a revved crowd raising their hands in abandon during a recent Tofu Festival.
A long, upholstered bench stretches along the same wall, while a garage-style glass door rolls up to expose a tiny sidewalk patio (lit at night with a crowd-attracting glow). The center of the modest-sized space is dominated by an opaque runway where waitresses clad in white Austin Powers-esque mini dresses or slinky metallic silver jumpers may strut at any time. A projector will screen fashion images, and in the evenings a lounge-like feel takes over with mellow DJ tunes.
As if one new restaurant isn’t enough, Jones told Restaurant Buzz that he is turning the corner on another Downtown venture, Empire. Set to open in mid-December at Eighth and Flower next door to the Ritz Milner and across from the Gas Company Lofts, the sprawling space will feature three floors – including a rooftop – that come in at a staggering 22,500 square feet. The concept is certainly unique, a lighter take on a surf and turf joint with dry-aging rooms, tanks with the day’s catch and a stylish bent aimed at attracting events. “It will be very European, everything white, clean and glam.” Jones compared the experience to a European eating a steak in Japan, or something like that.
One Return, Lower Prices: Closed following a bankruptcy and reorganization this summer, ultra sports lounge Trifecta will reopen in the next week with a game plan that includes new management, a revamped and cheaper menu, daily happy hour specials, and a new billiards and foosball lounge. According to owner Hardball Productions (which has new partners), you can still get your sports fix on the 17 plasma screens and 25-foot projection wall, but the upscale lounge and restaurant will have a more approachable feel – think waitresses in sports jerseys. Trifecta drew crowds early on, but many felt the prices were too steep to make it a regular destination. Hot dogs barked up the wrong tree at $15 and salads neared $30. At 200 S. Hill St. (ground floor of the Kawada Hotel).
Using Their Noodle: The long-awaited quick pasta chain Pastagina is getting nods of approval from customers flooding its Little Tokyo store. Owner Danilo Terribili’s patented pasta machine cooks perfectly al dente pasta imported from Italy in a matter of minutes (there are three pastas to choose from). Cooks then toss it over the stove with a selection of 15 sauces that include everything from chicken pesto to fresh tomato and basil. Pastagina also serves gelato (more than a dozen flavors) and a delicious affogato – espresso served over a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream ($2.50). If you just want espresso, it’s only $1. Two more Downtown Los Angeles stores are under construction. At 141 S. Central Ave.
Awards in Season: The AIA/L.A. Restaurant Design Awards will be announced Oct. 24. Among the 14 finalists are two Downtown establishments: In the restaurant category Blue Velvet (designed by TAG Front Architects) received a nod for the unique interior that includes a sunken granite dining table and coed bathrooms; in the lounge and nightclub category, The Edison (designed by Kelly Architects) was singled out for its revamp of a former power plant.
Also noted: A group of food critics dubbed Sexy LA named the Edison at Second and Main streets one of the 10 sexiest spots in the city, calling it “powerful and sexy, with lots of energy.” Must be sexy.
Joyeuse Halloween: Taix French restaurant will host a spooky Halloween dinner with a frightfully delicious lamb shanks entree ($16.95) that includes soup, salad and pumpkin pie ice cream. The dinner is from 4-10 p.m. with a monster music mash featuring the Tulsa Skull Swingers in the lounge (after 10:30 p.m.). Reservations requested. At 1911 Sunset Blvd., (213) 484-1265 or taixfrench.com.